From Beach Town to Skier’s Paradise: An Insider’s Guide to Lake Tahoe, the Year-Round Destination for Outdoor Enthusiasts

Lake Tahoe glitters in the Sierra Nevada mountains like a sapphire moon. At 22 miles long, 12 feet across, and with a surface area of 191 square miles, it’s the largest alpine lake in North America. Peaks as high as 10,000 feet soar above the shoreline, sending their reflection tumbling into the water. 

Mark Twain called Lake Tahoe “the fairest picture the whole Earth affords.” Over 150 years later, it’s hard to dispute his findings. This doesn’t mean things haven’t changed. Although sandy beaches, hiking trails, and high-elevation ski slopes have long made the region a magnet for outdoor recreation, Lake Tahoe is gaining recognition for gastronomical, cultural, and high-end experiences. It’s an exciting time to visit. 

I live half an hour away and spend most of my leisure time on or around the lake. Whether you’ve come to hit the slopes, revel in the views, or relax on the beach, these are my tips for where to find the best hotels, restaurants, outdoor recreation, and cultural activities in Lake Tahoe. 

First Things First, What To Know About Lake Tahoe:

Lake Tahoe straddles the line between California and Nevada. Locals refer to it as two distinct areas — North Lake Tahoe and South Lake Tahoe. They’re equally stunning and include parts of both states. 

North Lake Tahoe includes attractions like Sand Harbor State Park, Northstar Ski Resort, and Palisades Ski Resort. The area is brimming with tiny beach towns offering quintessential summertime pursuits like ice cream parlors, souvenir shops, and mini golf. North Lake Tahoe has more public beaches than South Lake Tahoe and a handful of casinos on the Nevada side. 

South Lake Tahoe is home to Emerald Bay State Park, Heavenly Mountain Resort, and most of the lake’s high-rise casino hotels and nightlife. The setting is almost surreal: it takes only a few minutes to drive past a strip of restaurants and casinos before entering a lush, green wilderness. 

What To Do:

Beaches and Water-Based Recreation:

With 72 miles of shoreline, you might assume that beach access is a given, but less than half of Lake Tahoe’s waterfront is open to the public. From Memorial Day through the end of September the public parks and beaches are crowded and often full to capacity. I’ve found that reservations at a hotel with private beach access are a game-changer this time of year.

Hotels with private beaches include Edgewood Tahoe Resort with a 3,800-foot private beach, The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe with a private Lake Club from the end of May through mid-September, and the Hyatt Regency Lake Tahoe Resort, Spa, and Casino, which operates a private beach across the street from the hotel. These hotels will also facilitate luxury charters and boat rentals. In addition, Zephyr Cove Marina has a fleet of rental Sea-Doo Jet Skis, power boats, pontoon boats, and private charters available. 

If you’re staying elsewhere and want to avoid the crowds, there are a few secret beaches if you don’t mind hiking. Secret Cove Beach, Chimney Beach, and Whale Beach are small, interconnected coves with turquoise water, soft sand, and smooth, elephantine boulders. Since they’re off the beaten path, these beaches are popular with nude sunbathers. Parking for the beaches is located on the west side of Highway 28, 7.9 miles from Incline Village. The trail to the water is less than a mile, but it’s steep, so wear sturdy shoes. There are no amenities here though there’s a pit toilet near the parking lot. 

Skiing and Snow Sports:

Lake Tahoe is most captivating when snow-covered mountains contrast brilliantly against the bright blue water. Ski season usually begins in mid-November and depending on snowfall, lasts as long as April or May (in 2023 there was so much snow on the mountains that Palisades Ski Resort didn’t close until July). You’ll find over a dozen ski resorts in the Lake Tahoe region. The three largest are Heavenly Mountain Resort, Northstar Ski Resort, and Palisades Ski Resort. All offer lessons, tubing hills, ice skating, and runs suitable for beginner, intermediate, and advanced skiers. 

Even if you don’t ski, it’s worth hopping on the year-round scenic gondola at South Lake Tahoe’s Heavenly Mountain Resort. With a peak elevation of more than 10,000 feet, this is the highest ski resort in Lake Tahoe and the panoramic views of the lake are as heavenly as the name implies. Heavenly Mountain Resort has over 4,800 skiable acres, 28 lifts, and 97 trails. Guests at Edgewood Tahoe Resort enjoy complimentary ski butler service and shuttles to Heavenly. 

With 6,000 skiable acres spread across two mountains, North Lake Tahoe’s Palisades Tahoe is the largest ski resort in the region. The resort hosted the 1960 Winter Olympics and today boasts 42 lifts and 270 trails. If you plan to spend your days here, Everline Resort and Spa offers ski-in/ski-out guest access to the slopes via a private gondola. Palisades is usually open longer than other ski resorts in the region, so it presents a unique opportunity for skiers visiting late in the season. 

Northstar Ski Resort in North Lake Tahoe claims over 3,000 skiable acres, 20 lifts, and 100 trails. Located on the mountain above the historic railway town of Truckee, the resort also operates a Nordic center with cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and fat tire biking. The Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe offers ski-in/ski-out access. 

Live Music and Entertainment:

Lake Tahoe is an incredible place for concerts and live entertainment. In recent years, the Summer Concert Series at Harvey’s has featured luminaries like Foo Fighters, Rod Stewart, and Lainey Wilson. The new Tahoe Blue Event Center has already hosted big-name acts like Colin Jost and Adam Sandler, in addition to being home to the Tahoe Knight Monsters professional hockey team. 

In summer, the Lake Tahoe Shakespeare Festival is beloved by locals and visitors in the know. Despite its name, the festival is about more than the Bard (in recent years they showcased "Little Shop of Horrors" and "Always… Patsy Cline"). Productions are held in an outdoor amphitheater at Sand Harbor State Park and the sunsets are as memorable as the performances. Buy your tickets early if you want seats with tableside service near the front of the stage. 

You’ll also find live music, trivia nights, and cold beer at South Lake Tahoe Brewing Co. and the Backyard Bar and Grill, and other breweries along the along the South Lake Tahoe Beer Trail. 

Where To Eat:

The name Smoke Door is whispered in hushed tones around the lake. Although the North Lake Tahoe restaurant is open to the public, it’s still considered to be somewhat of a secret (even the sign is small enough to discourage anyone from accidentally happening by). Chef Tyler Burgess splits his time between California and Japan, and Smoke Door - Lake Tahoe Saryo is a companion to his original restaurant located south of Tokyo in Yokohama. Ancient traditions and Japanese woodfired cooking inspire the menu, and patrons indulge in delicacies like golden osetra caviar served on a bed of smoking charred kombu and fish flown in every 48 hours from a Tokyo fish market. At night, diners choose between a six-course or 10-course tasting menu. Five courses are served for lunch. Elevated casual bites are available on the patio. 

You might think you’re headed to the wrong place as you approach local fave Cafe Fiore. Tucked away in a residential neighborhood, the seven-table restaurant is nestled in a cozy cabin (in summer, seating is also offered on the outdoor patio). The menu revolves around Italian dishes made from scratch with local ingredients, with highlights that include spaghetti con salsiccia with the perfect hint of heat and seafood dishes like tender seafood linguine. 

Riva Grill at the Ski Run Marina is the place for casual waterfront dining. Don’t miss the lobster deviled eggs drizzled with white truffle oil or the Dungeness crab sandwich. The restaurant is famous for the Wet Woody, a boozy, frozen drink that can be customized with your favorite rum (just be careful, they go down fast and they pack a mighty punch). 

Believe it or not, some of the best food in Lake Tahoe is located in a bowling alley. Incline Bowl is the proud home of Sam Choy’s Ohana Diner. The James Beard-nominated chef keeps the menu casual, befitting meals served a few feet away from activities like bowling, axe throwing, and billiards. Choy’s Hawaiian roots shine though with options like Spam Musubi, poke, and sweet and sticky fried chicken.  

Where To Stay:

Edgewood Tahoe Resort is a work of art. Every inch of this property was curated to highlight the allure of the lake. In the great room, elegant floor-to-ceiling windows showcase mountains and bright blue water while bespoke artwork incorporates elements of Tahoe’s history and precious natural resources. Amenities include a private beach, a year-round heated pool, and a shuttle service to South Lake Tahoe ski resorts, restaurants, and shops. A full-service spa, three excellent restaurants, and a robust roster of seasonal activities like movies on the lawn or a pop-up ice rink make it easy to pass this time at this Leed-certified resort. 

Accommodations at the Edgewood Tahoe Resort are exemplary with refined appointments like gas fireplaces, soaking tubs, and private balconies. In addition, two to five-bedroom villa suites with kitchens and private patios boasting firepits and hot tubs are available. Edgewood Tahoe Resort offers the only lakefront golf course in Lake Tahoe. 

North Lake Tahoe’s most luxurious hotel is the Ritz-Carlton, Lake Tahoe. The centerpiece is a stunning 55-foot-tall fireplace surrounded by tiered seating for intimate conversations. Whether you ski-in/ski-out to Northstar California Resort in winter or upgrade to the Lake Club to spend days on the beach in summer, the Tahoe lifestyle is an integrated part of every stay. Amenities include a luxurious 17,000-foot spa, five restaurants, a year-round heated pool, Topgolf Swing Suites, Ritz Kids experiences, and a game room. 

Recently renovated rooms feature blues, greens, and earth tones, evoking the Lake Tahoe region. Private balconies, gas fireplaces, and luxury linens make it difficult to pull yourself away in the morning. Upgrade to the club level for an open bar, complimentary meal selections and snacks throughout the day, plus a dedicated concierge. Suites and residences with up to four bedrooms, kitchens, and separate living spaces are available for guests seeking more space or extra privacy. 

For a boutique experience, book accommodations at Lake Tahoe newcomer Desolation Hotel. The hotel opened in 2022 with 22 luxury suites, studios, and townhomes. Amenities include soaking tubs on the balconies, a heated saltwater pool, and an excellent restaurant and bar.  The minimalist design, inspired by Japanese and Swedish aesthetics, is punctuated by luxury touches like Belkin speakers, gas fireplaces, and custom artwork. 

Desolation Hotel’s sister property, Desolation Hotel Hope Valley, features snug cabins and luxury yurts about an hour’s drive from the lake. Amenities include hiking trails, a wood-fired sauna, and two restaurants. 

The Best Time To Visit Lake Tahoe:

Lake Tahoe is a year-round destination, transforming from a beach town in summer to a skier's paradise in winter. However, spring and fall are my favorite times. This is when you’ll find the least traffic and the most solitude on roads, beaches, and hiking trails. Time your visit during the week instead of the weekend and it will be even quieter. 

Spring and fall are the best times to visit Lake Tahoe’s two most iconic parks without the crowds. Sand Harbor State Park in Nevada has a long strip of sandy beach and several smaller sandy coves with postcard-worthy stacks of colossal boulders. The entrance fee is $10 for vehicles with a Nevada license plate and $15 for everyone else. 

Emerald Bay State Park is a popular place for hiking. The park is home to Fanette Island, the only island in Lake Tahoe. The entrance sits above the bay and it’s a steep trek to reach the beaches and coves at the bottom. This is where you’ll find Vikingholm Castle, a nearly century-old building considered one of the finest examples of Scandinavian architecture on the continent. Alternatively, Cruise Tahoe offers transportation to Emerald Bay and Vikingholm Castle via boat. Group tours and private charters are available. 

How To Get to Lake Tahoe:

Lake Tahoe is a 200-mile drive from San Francisco (about 3.5 hours). Visitors arriving by air usually fly into Reno Tahoe International Airport (RNO) (a 45-minute drive from the lake), which, in addition to being serviced by major carriers, also provides semi-private service to Orange County via JSX. 

If you prefer to fly directly to Lake Tahoe, South Lake Tahoe Airport (TVL) and Truckee Tahoe Airport (TKRK) service passengers traveling via private flights.  

Know Before You Go:

- Bring sunblock. Lake Tahoe’s base elevation is 6,225 feet above sea level and the sun can be intense, even in winter. 

- Preserve Lake Tahoe’s beauty by keeping to dedicated trails and packing out what you pack in. 

- Lake Tahoe can sometimes get breezy in the afternoon — schedule water-based activities like kayaking and boating in the morning. 

- Book fine dining reservations, park reservations, boat rentals, and concerts, or event tickets ahead of arrival, especially during peak season. 

- Currently, there isn’t a reservation system for Emerald Bay State Park. During peak season you’ll have the best chance of finding a parking spot if you arrive early in the morning or late in the afternoon. There is no entrance fee, but the parking fee is $10 per vehicle or $3 for one hour. Cash and credit cards are accepted.

- Sand Harbor State Park recently implemented a reservation system. This is the only public beach that currently takes reservations and it can be booked up to 90 days in advance. The entrance fee is $10 for vehicles with a Nevada license plate and $15 for everyone else. Visit the ATM in advance since they only accept cash.